Procedure;
1) Remove rear wheel.
2) Remove rear brake caliper.
3) Remove one (1) screw holding sensor if ABS equipped. When removing this sensor, be very careful as there is a small O ring sitting inside a small counterbore. When I removed my sensor, the O ring came out with the sensor and ended up falling into my drain pan.
4) Secure an adjustable strap supporting the final drive to the rear frame underside.
5) Remove the bolt holding the torque arm to the final drive housing.
6) Remove the rearward drain plug as located in the 3 o clock position from the final drive housing.
7) Carefully lower the final drive housing as far as it will go by very gradually extending the length of the adjustable strap. At a certain point, the final drive will not drop any further. Make sure the the strap is snug at this point so as to not excerpt any undo pressure on the final drive pivot joint. For this operation, the hugger need not be removed as it clears all obstacles as the housing is rotated downwards.
8)Pry the rearward rubber bellows loose at both sides. Be careful when doing this as it tears easily. It makes re-assembly dramatically easier down the road if both sides are completely removed.
9) At this point, very carefully slide the universal joint and associated shaft rearward in order to facilitate rotation and dis-assembly of the final drive male spline from the universal joint female splined bore. Use great caution and care here so as to not slide the assembly rearward any more than necessary. You DO NOT want the forward drive connection coming apart! Mine required a movement of approximately 1/2 ~ 3/4". Very slight rotational rocking of the joint helped in separating the male / female splined connection.
10) With the splined connection now apart, removed the flexible rubber bellows.
11) Further lengthen the adjustable strap assembly and allow the drive housing to rotate all the way down with the drain plug now at the 6 o clock position.
12) By hand, rotate the brake disc to facilitate oil / debris removal from the housing. I actually let mine sit for a couple hours gently turning it every so often.
13) Grease the final drive mail spline with a good quality full synthetic grease. I used Castrol Syntech full synthetic for this purpose.
14) Use the same grease to lightly coat both engaging ends / faces of the removed rubber bellows / boot. It's a good idea to first give this boot a good cleaning as it can be done a whole lot easier than when installed.
15) Carefully raise the final drive trying to engage the final drive male spline into the universal joint female splined bore. Each time you try this and are unsuccessful in getting the two (2) to engage, very slightly move the universal shaft assembly reaward if it had been moved from the initial dis-assembly location. Once the joint can be assembled, lower the final drive only enough to re-insert the rubber boot / bellows.
16) Bring the assembly back up to its original height and re-install the bolt holding the torque arm to the final drive. This bolt has a washer under the bolt head and a special locking nut. This bolt is to be torqued to 43 Nm.
17) Clean the removed drain plug and the removed sensor.
18) Reinstall the drain plug in the rear of the housing. This plug with the integral o ring assembly is to be torqued to 20 Nm.
19) Fill the drive housing with the lubricant medium of your selection. I used 'Royal Purple' Max-Gear 75W90 full synthetic. When filling, the oil will be level with the bottom of the sensor opening when filled to the correct amount. This affords the most efficient lubrication of the internal components as the gears roll down through the oil bath and then back out. Completely submerging bearings in oil is often not down in high stress applications as cavitation issues can arise. To fill from empty, you will need approximately .23 L of oil.
20) Once full, first insert the previously removed O ring into the counterbore for the sensor and then carefully slide the speed sensor back into its port. Before doing this, apply some gear oil to the speed sensor barrel to help facilitate re-assembly and reduce sliding friction against the O ring. With the senor all the way inserted, hand tighten the one (1) bolt holding it in location.
21) Clean drive housing and brake disc from any oil and grease.
22) Re-assemble the rear brake caliper to its mounting locations with the two (2) bolts. These bolts are to be tightened to 24 Nm.
23) Re connect the sensor wire to its respective mounting clips.
24) Re-attach rear wheel. Rear wheel bolts are to be torqued to 60 Nm. Tighten in a staggering star pattern.
25) Clean everything up, sit back and have a few cold ones.
JOB WELL DONE
Drop me a post with any questions. I'll do anything I can to help. The job seemed as though it was going to be seriously bad though it really wasnt'. As an update, I now have 100 miles on ther bike since the change and have witnessed ZERO seal leaks either inboard or outboard. With this change, I used the 'Royal Purple' oil and did not change the seals.
本文转自：China Industry News